Continuing on from our previous drivetrain discussion, the second half of our review will be covering the Shimano 10 speed offerings available @ My Mountain, as well as alternative gearing options and how to choose the right setup for you and your riding style.
Shimano
In response to SRAM's release of the 2x10 XX groupset, Shimano hit back the following season with it's latest XTR drivetrain in a 10 speed guise dubbed 'Dyna-Sys'. However, unlike SRAM, Shimano debuted the groupset in 2 distinct flavours titled; Trail and Race, which provided riders with multiple choices for front cranksets, cassette ratios and derailleur options depending on their needs. The idea was to create a groupset that wasn't just designed for hardcore XC racers, but was also suitable for trail riders who valued the lightweight, high quality shifting and performance that is synonymous with the XTR name. While SRAM have been pushing the whole 2x10 system, Shimano are offering both 3x10 and 2x10 options in their XTR, Deore XT and SLX groupsets as they have recognised the importance of choice when it comes to gearing setup. Firstly, a quick rundown of the available 10 speed options from Shimano;
Shimano XTR: The absolute top of the tree in the world of Shimano, with intensively machined components for super crisp shifting and lighter weight. The HollowTech crankset lays the power down like no other and the Carbon/Titanium chainrings could be mistaken for a piece of art. Shifting is more positive on the M980 groupset compared to previous XTR drivetrains, but you still get silky smooth and stealthy shifting from the Japanese Juggernaut.
- Buy Me: If you want the smoothest shifting available and value lightweight parts
- Don't Buy Me: If you think replacing a worn Titanium cassette is cheap
Shimano Deore XT
Stepping up for 2012 with a redesign on the cranks, shifters and derailleurs, the Deore XT groupset sees some significant trickle down technology from the XTR line with the introduction of a double crankset. Like XTR, you get the choice of 'Trail' and 'Race', so you can choose how low or high your gearing needs to be. XT is known as "the standard" for mountain bikes, as aside from some carbon, titanium and a few grams, it is very close to XTR in performance.
- Buy Me: If you need dependable components with a utilitarian appeal
- Don't Buy Me: If you want sexy carbon on your bike or you're looking for the lightest component options
Shimano SLX
Also seeing the 10 speed Dyna-Sys treatment is the true workhorse of the Shimano lineup, SLX. While Deore XT continues to be whittled down to its lightest form yet, SLX takes a slightly burlier approach with its solid rear derailleur and beefy crankset that are likely to stand up to more abuse over more km's. Shifting performance is still Shimano-slick, but currently they only offer a triple crankset up front.
- Buy Me: If you want bulletproof performance and you are hard on your gear
- Don't Buy Me: If you want a dedicated 2x10 setup or you're counting grams
Choosing the right drivetrain setup for you
While that's all well and good, there's no need to drop everything and become a 'SRAM Fan' or 'Shimano Enthusiast', until you work out what drivetrain setup is best for you, your bike, your riding style and your riding conditions. As cliche as it may sound, it is not uncommon to see a weekend warrior heaving their way up a hill on a SRAM XX-equipped bike that is clearly geared to highly for their terrain and fitness levels. You can have all the carbon and acronyms in the world, but if you have to think, and we mean consciously think about your gears while riding, then you don't have a setup that works seamlessly for your conditions.
2x10
Without doubt the latest buzz in the mountain bike industry, the 2x10 drivetrain has had a real push by SRAM, first with the XX groupset and now with the X0 and X9 lines too. There are some clear benefits of running a double front crankset such as improved ground clearance, less front shifting, narrower Q-Factor and lighter weight. However, low gearing availability is not its forte and although those options are starting to become available, they are an aftermarket addition that can raise the initial costs up. Also, many full suspension bikes are designed to perform optimally around a 32t middle chainring, and so slapping on a 2x crankset with a 36 or 38t chainring will likely cause a certain amount of 'stiffening' of the suspension. Not a hugely noticeable issue, but worth mentioning nonetheless.
- Who it works for: Anyone wanting to simplify their current triple setup should look at gearing options on a 2x10 system. If you don't think you'll miss the super low/high gears a 3x9 drivetrain offers, you could find a 2x10 setup to have more usable gears with less overall front shifting.
- Who it doesn't work for: If you feel that having a 38t or 40t main ring is just too big to push for average trail riding, a dedicated 2x10 setup won't be ideal. Some terrain requires a super low 22/24t granny chainring, and if you find yourself on those kinds of trails regularly, you will still want to go with a 3x10 drivetrain.
3x10
We regularly have customers questioning the need for a 30 speed mountain bike, and it is true that most riders going to the new 10 speed setups are more drawn towards a 2x10 setup. However, the smoother shifting offered by the tighter ratio cassettes is a step up in performance from existing 9 speed options, and with the introduction of the 11-36t cassette option, Shimano has shrunken the gaps between the chainrings on their triple cranksets to 42-32-24t instead of the older 44-32-22t. This makes front shifting faster and more accurate, with less of a jump between shifts.
- Who it works for: Riders who spend most of their time in the middle 32t chainring and use most of the cassette range for the majority of their riding conditions. If you've got long, arduous climbs in your neighbourhood and couldn't live without a small chainring, don't believe the marketing hype and stick with a triple crankset for its versatility.
- Who should avoid it: Anyone that finds a granny ring more useful as a paper weight than an actual gear. If you're a big ring smasher, you will love the higher ratio double cranksets such as the 42-28t option from SRAM or the 38-26t option from Shimano.
Note: For 29er's, All Mountain bikes and anyone riding terrain where a granny ring is essential, you can still have a 2x10 setup without having to go with a dedicated double crankset. The picture on the left is of a 10 speed XT crankset that has had the 42t chainring removed, and replaced with a bashguard. The conversion is relatively straight forward, as you don't require any new components. Aside from swapping in the bashguard, all you need to do is wind in the upper limit screw to stop the derailleur from moving past the middle chainring. The reason you would do this is if you find the big chainring on a triple crankset mostly useless for your riding, but really appreciate the 32t middle ring and having the small chainring for climbing. And 'hey presto'; a 2x10 setup that can easily be changed back to a 3x10 arrangement if you decide you can't live without your big ring.
1x10
Starting to increase in popularity due to the advent of wide-range 11-36t 10 speed cassettes, the single chainring setup is becoming more feasible thanks to the increased range offered out back. While single chainring setups have been around on DH and Freeride bikes for some time now, All Mountain and XC riders are starting to warm to the concept and appreciate the simplicity and improved chain retention offered. Remove the front shifter, front derailleur, additional chainrings and a few chain links and all you need to do is choose the right chainring size for your riding (32, 34 and 36t are most popular) and use some kind of chain device in lieu of the front mech (E*13 XCX as in photo), and you've got yourself a reliable and simple drivetrain solution.
Who it works for: Simpletons with big legs. If you replace your middle chainring about 5 times before any other chainring, there's a good chance a 1x10 drivetrain is all you really need for your riding conditions. The increased chain retention and snappier shifting from a shorter chain is noticeable on rough terrain and great for aggressive riders.- Who should avoid it: Like a 2x10 system, any rider who requires a low climbing gear will struggle with a single front chainring. Likewise, on most XC racetracks you will be pining for a 38t-42t big chainring that this option does not provide. If you have dodgy knees, you're best off with a drivetrain setup that has a low climbing gear.
While we understand that there are many confusing drivetrain options available to us these days, and it seems like each magazine or press release tells us to use a different setup that what the last one said, there are no doubts that there is a suitable option for your bike and your riding style. By going off previous experience, you can determine fairly easily what are the gears you really use, and what gears are mostly redundant for your riding. Don't be pressured into buying the 'macho' race-specific setups if you're not the racer type, as those gearing ratios will not be useful for 90% of riders out there.
If you like what you've read but have a few more specific questions about what groupset you want to fit to your new bike, or how to modify your existing setup to better suit your legs, by all means drop us a line or come into MMHQ in Brunswick to further discuss your available options. We would love to share our experience with the new 10 speed groupsets and help your decision making in getting the right setup for you.
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